Dalmatia: Creuella de Ville Would Not Be Pleased (But I Was)

Trogir kids0

Loosely described as a narrow stretch of land on the eastern shore of the Adriatic, this delightful part of Croatia has exquisite views, magnificent architecture, and fabulous food and wine. What I never glimpsed in a three week visit were the black- and- white spotted pooches of Disney’s One Hundred and One Dalmatians—the objects of Cruella’s desire.

Walking the walls in Motovun

Motovun, an easy two- hour drive from Zagreb, is a tiny (population under 600) town on a hillside enclosed by an ancient wall that you can traverse in seven minutes unless you pause to soak up the gorgeous surroundings. It’s also truffle central where an almost two and a half- pound tuber was dug up a few years ago. Shops sell truffles au natural; restaurants feature them shaved over pasta, fish, in cheese, honey and even mixed into ice cream. As I’m not a truffle fan, at lunch at Mondo, graced by Anthony Bourdain in 2010, I ate wonderful tagliatelle with baby asparagus.

Non-truffle lunch for two with two glasses of wine was $30.00.

Museum of Ancient Glass outside.

It would be easy to spend a half day at the Zadar Museum of Ancient Glass (admission under $4.50 ) Housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi palace with a sleek modern addition, the first room is devoted to gorgeous contemporary glass but it’s the old pieces excavated when a local shopping plaza was underway that grabbed me. Stemmed glasses, a luxury item, were often purchased using nuns’ dowries, an indication that women entering the religious life came from high born families.

An area devoted to glass containers for medicines and cosmetics has jars and vials that once held beauty products for Roman ladies. Glassblowing demos and a lovely gift shop are part of the fun.

Motovun. jPG

Zadar is also the site of the Sea Organ, a musical instrument-cum art installation that turns ocean waves into harmonious sounds with pipes and chambers tucked under marble steps. Sounds are totally random depending on waves and wind. Next to the sea organ is the Greeting to the Sun, made by the same artist, glass plates set into cement that light up at sunset.

Salt wagon in Ston

From Zadir I drove the hour and a half to Trogir where parking is a challenge but I somehow scored. The Cathedral of St. Lawrence was built by the Venetians during the 13th to 19th centuries and is full of lions, the symbol of Venice. I opted to not climb the cathedral tower even though it’s highly touted as a spot for a great view of the old town.

A motorcycle race took place during my visit so we were herded onto the sides of a bridge as the bikes roared through and little kids waved flags. I was also treated to a group of young women in old time Croatian dress, quite unlike the denim worn today, who pranced around like Rockettes.

sardines atop polenta

Lunch at elegant TRS was a seafood delight with tuna carpaccio, marinated scallops and shrimp that had been smashed and rolled in crushed pistachios, a popular Croatian flourish, accompanied by wonderful olive bread.

Jadrolina ferry

A Jadrolinija ferry takes people and cars to the island of Hvar where you decamp at Stari Grad, the oldest town in Croatia, settled in 384 B.C. In the middle of the island, Stari Grad’s protected harbor is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards with ancient stone houses on twisty, cobbled streets. In mid-April, Hvar’s workers were busy with cement mixers and pneumatic drills gearing up for the glittering high season that starts in May. During the season, Hvar attracts celebrities as well as travelers who come for the beaches, cafes, bars and nightlife.

Traveler’s Tip: This action brings both higher prices and crowds so unless bling and zing are what you’re after you might enjoy the island—as well as the other small towns– more in late spring or fall.

Substantial Wall of Ston

Hvar has been ruled by Romans, Venetians, Turks and the Austrian Empire; as you wander, all around are reminders of these civilizations like 16th century St. Stephen’s Cathedral built in Venetian style and the Franciscan Monastery where classical concerts are held in summer. If you, like me, love sardines, eat them grilled or atop polenta in a tomato-based sauce with raisins and cooked onions.

Other fish as well as pasta, risotto often with seafood and gregada, a sort of stew with sea bass, potatoes, onions and wine are integral to the Hvar dining scene.

Mondo Restaurant Motovun

The town of Ston is surrounded by an impressive wall and towers built in the 14th and 15th centuries to repel invaders. Europe’s answer to the Great Wall of China, it’s the site of the annual Ston Wall Marathon in September. Ston is also famous for its salt pans that have been in almost constant use for 4000 years. Salt harvesting takes place in summer but at anytime you can pay about $2 to see a video of the process and walk up close to the salt pans. Mali Ston, one kilometer away, is known for oysters.

pasta for lunch at Mondo JPG

At Bota, a lovely restaurant where you can eat outdoors gazing at the water, lunch for two with a dozen oysters, wine and dessert is about $50. Try the Ston cake, a local creation that incorporates a penne-like pasta.

Dalmatia is truly beautiful but didn’t yield a single Dalmatian dog although the breed is said to have developed in Croatia. Cruella would be miffed.

Ston oysterman.

Getting there: Many airlines fly to different cities in Croatia. Leaving from JFK, New York, I flew outbound on KLM with a stopover in Amsterdam, returning also on KLM from Split with a stopover in Amsterdam. Delta, Tap Portugal, Air Serbia, Swiss and Turkish Airlines also fly to Croatia. Round trip costs between $1200-1500 although via Expedia you may be able to pay as little as $560.

Where to stay: Zagreb: Zig Zag Apartments Trg bana Josipa Jelacica 3, Zagreb/ 7th floor  http://www.zigzag.hr/ Phone: +385 1 8895433E-mail:  info@zigzag.hr

FB:  facebook.com/zigzagzagreb is very popular.  

HotelHotel Jagerhorn
Ilica 14, Zagreb 10000, Croatia 011 385 1 4833 877 is modern yet looks historic, located in a quite street in the town center. Rates $114 for two people

Sheraton Zagreb

2 Kneza Borne, Donji Grad, is a business hotel, exactly what you would expect from a Sheraton.

I made reservations as I went along through Booking.com which was easy to do because I traveled in advance of the high season. In high season it’s best to reserve ahead. In Motovun, I stayed at the Bed and Breakfast Antico, Pietro Kandler 2, 52424 right in the middle of the tiny town with free Wi-Fi and a decanter of Croatia’s “grappa” for guests to sample at will. http://www.antico-motovun.com/ RATES

If You Go:

Mondo Konoba, 1 Barbacan, (385-52) 681-791

Zadar Museum of Ancient Glass (admission under $4.50 ) www.zadar.travel/en/city-guide/attractions/26-05-2009/museum-of-ancient-glass-zadar

Jadrilinija Ferries: www.jadrolinija.hr/en/ferry-croatia

TRS, Trogir: http://konoba-trs.com

Ston: Salt works: www.solanaston.hr

Bota restaurant: www.bota-sare.hr

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